The Tale Of Banarasi Weave!
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The Tale Of Banarasi Weave!
Banarasi
silk saree is one of the most classic and ornate garments you will ever drape. The
sarees are known for their detailed brocade-zari work made with gold and
silver, as well as their finely woven silk and intricate engravings. The
skilled artisans from the city use extraordinary precision to weave the sarees
using gold and silver threads. This nine-yard-long delight is loved and cherished
by the majority of saree lovers and is one of the most sought-after in the
country, known for its magnificence and grandeur.
The
Banarasi sarees are woven on the resplendent jacquard loom, with around 5600
thread wires and all are 45 inches wide. A thread (weft) will go over and under
a set of threads(warp) in a specific order in which the weft passes over and
under the warp will modulate the pattern woven into the fabric. An artist
develops design boards by outlining the designs on graph paper with color
concepts. The punch cards come into sight before choosing the final design,
then hundreds of cards are formed to attain a single pattern on a saree. The
precise order in the weft passes over and under the warp threads determines the
pattern on the saree.
History Of Banaras Handloom
During the Mughal
period, around the fourteenth century, the artisans began to make their
presence felt by creating unique and intricate silk fabrics using golden and
silver zari threads. Banarasi tapestry began to gain more recognition and
spread its expertise during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. These
sarees are one of the finest sarees in India and are known for their gold,
silver, or zari motifs, fine silk, and intricate hand weaving. The silk sarees
are crafted from delicately woven silk and embellished with an intricate
design, and because of these engravings, the silk sarees have occupied a
prominent place in the market.
Its special features
are Mughal-inspired designs such as the intricate interwoven foliage floral
motifs, calga, and bell; a series of vertical leaves called jahlhar, or the rim
fringe is a feature of these sarees. Other features involve gold work, narrow
texture, shapes with small details, metallic visual effects, jal (web-like
pattern), and enamel work.
History
Of Weavers
India is known
globally for its diversity and rich cultural heritage. Banaras, also known
as Varanasi, have been one of the cities that have laid the foundation of
India’s cultural heritage. The stories of weavers and artisans, back from 5000
years and beyond, have stories that have gone untold. The tales weaved
over sarees, suits, or other fabrics are inspired by real-life stories and are
an amalgamation of the fabric, the weaver’s imagination, and real-life
incidents from our adages. Raw cotton, khadi, silk, and linen are applied to
the thread to emphasize the dynamism in the shape of the fabric.
Banaras is known for
its worldwide social, economic, and religious importance. The city is equally
important as it is the center for brocade weaving throughout the country. The
textile industry, which developed during the Vedic period and reached its peak
in the polar period, explains the act of weaving as a fundamental part of the
lives of the people of Banaras. Whether it was a religious activity or a source
of living for the population, weaving activity transcended all other
professions. From a historical angle, the textile industry has found a place in
Vedic literature to post-independence India.
The
sarees occupy a special place even in today’s day and age and still reign in
the world of silk and sarees. The city of Varanasi has worked tirelessly to
retain art and culture alive. In today's world, for every woman, the Banarasi
saree still serves as a sign of royalty. They
are one of the finest traditional sarees in India and very heavy due to their
rich embroidery work, which makes them perfect for parties, festivals, and
weddings. There are four varieties of Banarasi saree namely organza (Kora),
Shatir saree, Georgette saree, and pure silk (Katan).
Making of Banarasi Saree
Usually, it takes 15 to 30 days are required to weave a single
Banarasi saree. Though, it depends on the intricacy of the design and patterns.
Normally, three weavers are needed in the fabricating of this saree. One weaves
the saree, the second one handles the rotating ring in making bundles, and the
third one supports the border design. Making the Banarasi saree needs teamwork.
Preferably, a Banarasi consists of 5600 thread wires with 45 inches wide. The
artisans make a base 24-26 inches long. Designing the motifs starts at the
bundling stage. An artist develops design boards by sketching the designs on
graph paper along with colour concepts. Before selecting the final design,
punch cards are produced, and then hundreds of prick cards are created to
accommodate a single design for a saree. Different colours and threads are used
to knit the prick cards on the loom. The prick cards are then paddled in a
structured way to make sure the main weave picks up the right colours and
patterns.
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